“Living” in two different countries on either side of the Equator means I get to enjoy more than one summer a year at “home”. We have been blessed with some of the best waves and weather in years. It’s so good to surf my home-break with some of my closest friends. I couldn’t ask for too much more!
It’s Hawaii end of the year time again…getting boards ready…..hoping…some of us hope to make a few heats and score a few points, some of us hope to win a contest, some us hope to get on the world tour, some us hope to stay on the world tour, a few hope to be Triple Crown Champ and even better, crowned World Champ…….all of us hope to score a barrel of a lifetime…may we all have a season to remember…
Thanks for the photos, Darrol Staples…the Braai king of the world.
Good memories, many moons ago, my first boat trip, for Jason Hearn’s movie “15 Below”, frothing groms. Dale and Dane Staples, James and Thomas Woods, Nick Godfrey, Brendon Gibbens, Mickey February and Matt Bromley – good friends -miss them – sadly I don’t see enough of them anymore…
Chris Leppan, Myself, Matt Hewitt, Dale Staples and Matt Bromley at the SA Surfing Awards. Thanks to Zigzag for an amazing night and congrats to all the winners!
Red Bull x Jordy Smith Nighshift at Northbeach. Flood lights were set up and all the boys were getting whipped in at night. It was pretty crazy to surf in front of such a huge crowd at nigh! Hope I get the chance to do it again next year. Pics by Kolesky.
Last, but not least the Mr Price Pro is on at Ballito. They have only done 9 heats of Rd1 so far, but hopefully the waves pick up and we can get amongst it!!
The Telstra Drug Aware Pro finished almost a week ago, with John Florence winning, comfortably. I have decided to hang around here, because the waves are sick and I really like it here. I would have to say this is my favourite contest of the year! In other unrelated news, the surfing world has lost one of it’s biggest legends, Michael Peterson. RIP
Late season Hawaii is the best! We have had constant waves for about 6 days now. Although there is a huge swell coming. Like 20/25 feet huge. I’m kinda fearing. It’s been nice to see everyone after the break and catch up with friends from all over the world. We really do have the best job in the world!
It’s time to go to Hawaii! I had a sick week in California and can’t wait to spend more time here through the year! I got a bank account, social security number, looked at cars, got a bicycle, coached with Ian Cairns and surfed a different spot everyday. Good times!
This is my new home break. It doesn’t look like much, but it has produced many generations of world class surfers, from Matt Archbold to Kolohe Andino. Hopefully it works some magic on me too…..
Check out the trailer of Jason Hearne’s movie, The Africa Project. If you are in South Africa on the 25th of November go check it out at Trinity, 15 Bennet Street, Green Point, Cape Town. Thanks Jay for making a movie about the South African boys and including me in the project!