Surfing, Traveling, Photography

Posts tagged “Backdoor


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It’s Hawaii end of the year time again…getting boards ready…..hoping…some of us hope to make a few heats and score a few points, some of us hope to win a contest, some us hope to get on the world tour, some us hope to stay on the world tour, a few hope to be Triple Crown Champ and even better, crowned World Champ…….all of us hope to score a barrel of a lifetime…may we all have a season to remember…

Thanks for the photos, Darrol Staples…the Braai king of the world.


Hawaii: Exposed

Normaly, the media will start the Hawaii season expose with some deep “pit” photos – not to be – the ocean is flat – Surfline starts with some tailwafts, slashes and airs….check it out…..happy to be part of it !!


Hawaii has been fun so far. Today is unbelievably dead flat, but there have been some waves around. Pretty frothed out on the swim I had with Dale checking out the dreaded reef at Pipe/Backdoor. If it’s possible, I am more scared than ever before of the place.